Something new, something blue

About a year and a half ago, I met the sweetest couple to talk about making a wedding dress.  Yes, both were at the initial appointment and while the bride talked design, their fiance was a part of that process.  Not in the way of giving ideas, more in the way of being interested in the design talk that was happening between the bride and myself.  

The wedding was set for the following Fall 2020, so there was plenty of time to start work on finding fabrics and putting a muslin pattern together.  What I didn't account for was Covid.

As with any dress, I like to start with a picture.  For this dress, we did start with a picture for inspiration, it served more as a concept or the 'essence' of what their dress would be.  I am going to show the concept dress but keep in mind, it is only a concept, my starting point.

Inspiration Dress

The bride liked the design of the skirt and wanted to add some color along the sides and back;  liked the look of the appliques on both the bodice and skirt, and wanted an off the shoulder bodice with long flowing appliqued sleeves.

I made a pattern of the dress from muslin with the design elements discussed at the first appointment - off the shoulder bodice with sheer sleeves, skirt with a pop of navy blue, chapel length train.  Because of restrictions due to covid, we could not meet in person to fit the pattern.  So instead, I mailed them the pattern, did a Facetime fitting with help from their mom, and then had them mail the dress back to me to make adjustments.  We did two appointments like this before I started on the dress.

Muslin pattern - front

Muslin pattern - back

Putting the dress together

The skirt ~ 

To add color to the satin skirt layer, godets made from navy blue satin were attached along each side seam and center back seam.  A layer of organza and two layers of tulle were added to soften the contrast between the navy and white creating an overall softness to the skirt.

Skirt with a layer of organza and two
layers of tulle

Front skirt

One last detail to the skirt before adding the appliques ... pockets! 

Pockets in a wedding dress are just a fun
detail to add

The bodice ~ 

The original idea was an off the shoulder bodice constructed from satin with an appliqued tulle overlay and sleeves made from the same appliqued tulle. Due to covid, shortages and longer than usual shipping times made us rethink this plan.  The uncertainty of when or even if the fabrics we first thought of using would arrive, caused us to come up with another plan.  To get a similar look, we used chiffon for the sleeves and purchased about 25 mirrored pairs of appliques that were cut and pieced to the bodice, sleeves and upper part of the skirt.  We purchased from businesses closer to home still open and able to ship.

Appliques

Cutting and laying out the appliques

Attaching appliques to center front bodice

 

Sleeve work ~

With most of the bodice appliqued,  I started thinking of how I wanted to keep the sleeve in place and comfortable across the upper shoulder.  I decided to make two bands, one for each sleeve, using soft foldover elastic. It stretched from the top of the seam connecting the sleeve to the bodice at front and back.  

Foldover elastic attached to upper front 
and back of sleeve

Attaching appliques across upper sleeve

Appliques stitched in place

Attaching buttons and looping to the center back ~

Hand stitching buttons in place

Looping pinned in place, button
 placement marked

Button and loops in place

Bodice and sleeves appliqued

Adding appliques to the top part of the skirt ~

There is a concealed zipper on the skirt and I wanted to attach the appliques in way that it looked like just one applique covering the zipper. 

Pinning applique along zipper seam 

With the back of the dress finished, I moved to the front to finish up.

The dress and veil ~

For the final fitting, we were able to meet in person.  After not seeing each other since that very first appointment with their fiance back in the Fall of 2019, it was really nice to see them in their dress, mask and all.  

One of my favorite moments with this bride came on the day of their final fitting, I will remember this moment for a very long time. They wanted color added to their veil that would match the color added to their dress so I dyed a few appliques earlier in the week but had not yet attached them to the veil.  So, at the fitting we positioned and stitched each one in place, together.  

Mary, it was so nice to meet you and Spencer.  Thank you for trusting me with making your dress during a time that was anything but normal, a time that should have been carefree for you. 

I hope our paths cross again someday! Congratulations!!